Contested Bodies: The Blue Cheongsam Uniform In Colonial Hong Kong [Bibliography]

by Janice Li [Non-Fiction]

This essay is published in LooseLeaf Magazine’s Volume 6 [Print]. The footnotes and bibliography are available below.

Footnotes

  1. Cheungsam is used by Cantonese-speaking southern Chinese and is more familiar to Westerners. Qipao is a Mandarin word commonly used in northern China. According to Wessieling in Fusionable Cheongsam, most HK-based Shanghai tailors use these terms interchangeably, and both terms refer to the same dress.
  2. Vivi Li, 長衫校服：鮮為人知的故事 [online]. Education Post, updated July 2016 [cited 30 March 2021]. Available from : <http://www.educationpost.com.hk/zh-hk/resources/parents-guide/160711-special-report-cheongsam>
  3. Hazel Clark and Agnes Wong, “Who Still Wears the Cheungsam?” in Evolution & Revolution: Chinese Dress 1700s-1990s, ed. By Claire Roberts (Sydney: Powerhouse Publishing, 1997), pp. 65-74, (p.68).
  4. Vivi Li, 長衫校服：鮮為人知的故事 .
  5. Ibid.
  6. Ibid.
  7. School History. In SPCS 160 Anniversary Celebration [online]. St. Paul’s Convent School, updated 2014 [cited 17 April 2021]. Available from: <http://nicolepang8824.wixsite.com/spcs160/schoolhistory>
  8. A Brief History of MSS. In Marymount Secondary School Homepage [online]. Marymount Secondary School, [cited 30 March 2021]. Available from: <http://www.mss.edu.hk/mss-profile/info/history.htm>
  9. Finnane, Antonia, Changing Clothes in China: Fashion, History, Nation (New York: Columbia University Press, 2008), 174.
  10. Wessieling, Fusionable Cheongsam (Hong Kong: Hong Kong Arts Centre, 2007) 43.
  11. Ibid, 18.
  12. Martha Huang, “A Woman Has So Many Parts to Her Body, Life is Very Hard Indeed!” in China Chic: East Meets West, ed. by Valerie Steele and John S. Major (New Haven & London: Yale University Press, 1999), pp.132-139 (p. 134).
  13. Ibid.
  14. Naomi Yin-yin Szeto, “Cheungsam: fashion, culture and gender” in Evolution & Revolution: Chinese Dress 1700s-1990s, ed. By Claire Roberts (Sydney: Powerhouse Publishing, 1997), pp. 54-64 (p. 59).
  15. Szeto, 60-61.
  16. Szeto, 55.
  17. Wessieling, 10.
  18. 李嘉言, “校服：規訓、性別建構、教育政策”, Cultural Studies@Lingnan, 36 (2013),  pp.3-24 (p. 3).
  19. Chang, Eileen, “A Chronicle of Changing Clothes”, trans. Andrew F. Jones, Positions: East Asia Cultures Critique, Durham and London: Duke University Press 11 (2) 2003 [1943], pp.427-41 (p.435).
  20. Huang, 134.
  21. Hazel Clark, “The Cheung Sam: Issues of Fashion and Cultural Identity” in China Chic: East Meets West, ed. by Valerie Steele and John S. Major (New Haven & London: Yale University Press, 1999), pp.155-166 (p.156).
  22. Wessieling, 22, 25.
  23. Huang, 139.
  24. Huang, 135.
  25. Wessieling, 15.
  26. Szeto, 59.
  27. Brian J. McVeigh, Wearing Ideology: State, Schooling and Self-Presentation in Japan (New York: Berg, 2000), 11.
  28. Diana Crane, Fashion and its Social Agendas: Class, Gender, and Identity in Clothing (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 2000), 89.
  29. McVeigh 3, 79.
  30. 李嘉言, 8, 9.
  31. Clark and Wong, 68.
  32. McVeigh, 5.
  33. McVeigh, 79.
  34. 李嘉言, 16.
  35. 李嘉言, 14.
  36. McVeigh, 79. Crane, 87.
  37. McVeigh, 76, 79.
  38. 李嘉言, 11.
  39. 李嘉言, 21.
  40. 李嘉言, 12.
  41. Woman’s Education Before the War. In Hong Kong Voice: Oral History Archive [online]. Hong Kong Memory, 2012, [cited 20 March 2021]. Available from: <http://www.hkmemory.hk/collections/oral_history/feature_OH/story04/story4_rec/index.html>
  42. 李嘉言, 12.
  43. Vivi Li, 長衫校服：鮮為人知的故事 .
  44. Ibid.
  45. 李嘉言, 15, 17.
  46. Dr. Ellen Li. In Dr. Ellen Li Charitable Foundation [online]. Hong Kong Sanatorium & Hospital [cited 23 April 2021]. Available from: <http://www.elicf.com/eng/Dr%20Ellen%20Li.htm>

Bibliography

Primary Resources

Woman’s Education Before the War. In Hong Kong Voice: Oral History Archive [online]. Hong Kong Memory, 2012, [cited 20 March 2021]. Available from: <http://www.hkmemory.hk/collections/oral_history/feature_OH/story04/story4_rec/index.html>

Secondary Resources

A Brief History of MSS. In Marymount Secondary School Homepage [online]. Marymount Secondary School, [cited 30 March 2021]. Available from: <http://www.mss.edu.hk/mss-profile/info/history.htm>

Chang, Eileen, “A Chronicle of Changing Clothes”, trans. Andrew F. Jones, Positions: East Asia Cultures Critique, Durham and London: Duke University Press 11 (2) 2003 [1943], pp.427-41

Clark, Hazel, “The Cheung Sam: Issues of Fashion and Cultural Identity” in China Chic: East Meets West, ed. by Valerie Steele and John S. Major (New Haven & London: Yale University Press, 1999), pp.155-166

Clark, Hazel, Wong, Agnes, “Who still wears the cheungsam?” in Evolution & Revolution: Chinese Dress 1700s-1990s, ed. By Claire Roberts (Sydney: Powerhouse Publishing, 1997), pp. 65-74

Crane, Diana, Fashion and its Social Agendas: Class, Gender, and Identity in Clothing, Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 2000

Dr. Ellen Li. In Dr. Ellen Li Charitable Foundation [online]. Hong Kong Sanatorium & Hospital [cited 23 April 2021]. Available from: <http://www.elicf.com/eng/Dr%20Ellen%20Li.htm>

Finnane, Antonia, Changing Clothes in China: Fashion, History, Nation (New York: Columbia University Press, 2008)

Huang, Martha, “A Woman Has So Many Parts to Her Body, Life is Very Hard Indeed!” in China Chic: East Meets West, ed. by Valerie Steele and John S. Major (New Haven & London: Yale University Press, 1999), pp.132-139

Li, Vivi, 長衫校服:鮮為人知的故事 [online]. Education Post, updated July 2016 [cited 30 March 2021]. Available from: <http://www.educationpost.com.hk/zh-hk/resources/parents-guide/160711-special-report-cheongsam>

McVeigh, Brian J., Wearing Ideology: State, Schooling and Self-Presentation in Japan (New York: Berg, 2000)

School History. In SPCS 160 Anniversary Celebration [online]. St. Paul’s Convent School, updated 2014 [cited 17 April 2021]. Available from: <http://nicolepang8824.wixsite.com/spcs160/schoolhistory>

Szeto, Naomi Yin-yin, “Cheungsam: fashion, culture and gender” in Evolution & Revolution: Chinese Dress 1700s-1990s, ed. By Claire Roberts (Sydney: Powerhouse Publishing, 1997), pp. 54-64

Wessieling, Fusionable Cheongsam (Hong Kong: Hong Kong Arts Centre, 2007)

李, 嘉言, “校服:規訓、性別建構、教育政策”, Cultural Studies@Lingnan, 36 (2013), pp.3-24